1/31/2007

Dead Donkeys... finally

Posted by Andrew |

I apologize for the delay. I know you were all checking the site daily just praying that you could hear about the dead donkey.

The apartment where I live is on the 7th story of solidly-built apartment block located on a street called Kawser. Just down the road there is a famous juice stand where you can get all types of fresh-squeezed juice for about 30 cents a pop. Not too bad. This juice place is located on a pretty major street - Gameat ad-Dawal Street. For you Coloradan's, think of Colorado Blvd and Yale, at rush hour traffic, but twice the size. For those from California, just think of Los Angeles.

My roommate, his Dad, and I were sitting at a outdoor resturant down the street eating the usual meal of schwerma, shish tawouk, and other amazing and healthy foodstuffs. (Okay, I'm lying a bit... I wasn't there yet, but it sounds better if I say I was). Now, only in Egypt do you have such a contrast of time periods, with hundreds of thousands of cars interlaced with horse and donkey drawn carriages carrying fresh produce from outside Cairo... all on the same street.

Well, the cars are cruising along, maybe 40 miles an hour, and the donkey cart is trucking along, maybe 10 miles an hour, when we hear a blood-curdling "neigh" or "hawwww" or whatever sound donkeys make. In the distance, a taxi has somehow hooked his bumper onto the harness of the donkey and is dragging him down the road. After fifty feet or so, the donkey comes unhooked and lies pitifully on the ground as the taxi speeds off.

Anyways, straight to the point, a poor donkey minding his busy was ruthlessly dragged to his death by a blaring taxi on a major road in the middle of Cairo... true story.

1/24/2007

My First Published Article

Posted by Andrew |

I know you are expecting the dead donkey story, but something better came up. An article I wrote while traveling the Trans-Siberian has been published in an online travel magazine from the United Kingdom.

Here's the link: http://www.itchyfeetmagazine.com/IFM_Issue12.pdf .
My article is on pages 10-11 of the magazine entitled, "East." Although there are a few spelling errors, and they identify me as being from the U.K., it's me, I swear!

Enjoy!

This blog entry will be good, trust me!

Belt Fights: The island of Zamalek is a little enclave of Westerners filled with diplomats, their families, and extremely rich Egyptian families located in the Nile River in Cairo, Egypt. After finishing class one day, I went for a long walk along the Nile and by the grace of God found a coffee chain popular in California called Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. Now I've grown to enjoy the acidic gut-busting instant drink called Nescafe, which some people consider real coffee, however, some days it just doesn't do it for me. Coffee Bean was the answer, "large Americano, please."



After enjoying my drink for quite awhile, reading a local paper, and studying some Arabic, I
walked outside and up an on-ramp to try and find a minibus home. As I was waiting for a bus heading my way, I saw one on the side of the road with an big angry Egyptian yelling something to someone inside. As I got closer and stopped to watch, the yelling man charged the minibus and tried to open the door, which was being held tightly by a scared teenager inside. Well the minibus driver starts driving again; in an act of acrobatic genius, the yelling Egyptian jumps onto the side of the bus, rips open the door with one hand, and with his feet begins kicking the teenager inside the bus!!! I wish I had my camera...

Get a mental picture of this, a large Egyptian man with a potbelly holding onto a moving minibus while kicking another Egyptian through the half open door! It gets better. Traffic is bad so the bus comes to a stop, and the big guy jumps off the bus, followed by a few others from the inside. The jump-kicking pot-bellied Egyptian undos his belt, whips it off and begins making threatening whip motions towards the other guys, who then promptly do the same. I keep walking, a little more quickly this time, checking to make sure my belt can be easily undone, laught a bit, and naturally, catch a different bus home.

Stay tuned for part II: Dead Donkeys.

1/10/2007

Egyptian Buses

Posted by Andrew |


So, I started my Arabic classes the last few days at a language center called "Fajr" meaning "dawn." When I mentioned I was studying there, someone told me half in jest, that the center was run by the Muslim Brotherhood. The Muslim Brotherhood, a banned conservative, political, Islamic organization does not in fact run the center that I study at, but it is an interesting thought. Apparently, previous students have been prodded to examine Islam at the center. I'll stick with the textbooks.

To get to my school, I have to catch a minibus from near my apartment. I live with two other students, one of whom did the same program that I did in Egypt three years ago (www.bestsemester.com). My other roommate, a Swede, is also a great guy. Our apartment is gigantic, two living rooms, a dining room, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and three bedrooms. Not to mention, I'm paying roughly 1/6th of what my rent was in Santa Barbara!!

No beach here... just the Nile... if you think it would be fun to swim in the Nile, you'd be safer injecting yourself with hepatitis (all three strands).

Back to the bus story; taxis are cheap here- very cheap. I can take one easily from my house to my school for about 80 cents, but where's the fun in that? Minibuses however, run the length of the major roads with Egyptian guys hanging out yelling the destinations. People who want to get on the bus need to break into a swift run in order to hop up onto the bus; shopping bags, books, veils, and falafels flying everywhere- a wonderful sight.

Yesterday, after finishing my class, I waited in front of the school to catch my minibus back to my neighborhood. Apparently, many non-Egyptians don't do this, as I'm either stared at with a funny expression... or glanced at stealthily with a funny expression by nearly everyone.

Yesterday, the bus came whirring by, and we (me and 20 Egyptians) started running.

Side note: To understand the size of these buses, think of a normal yellow school bus...
Now, think of the yellow school bus half the size for the "special" kids in elementary school.
Now, think of a high school basketball game, with a large crowd.
Now, picture that large crowd crammed into a "special" school bus, and you have the equivalent of an Egyptian bus. Kind of like a minivan on steroids.

So, I'm running-the bus actually stops this time; people shuffle off, and others starting pushing their way on. The bus is full all the way to the door... but I don't want to wait for another one. I stand near the door and ask the money guy where the bus is going- "Imbaba" "Ana baaroh li Imbaba" (I'm going to Imbaba). In a quick blur of activity I find myself half-way on the bus holding on to a railing and some poor Egyptian guy in front of me. The bus is moving, quickly, and the money guy is behind me fully outside of the bus holding on to the railings. This special bus careens throughout the crowded streets of Cairo swerving around taxis, pedestrians, motorbikes, and many other animals and humans. Fortunately it was a short ride!

I make it to my destination, throw my 50 piastre fare to the money guy (roughly 8 cents, a much better price), take a flying leap, tuck and roll (not really), and walk home.

I grab a falafel sandwich at a nearby stand (15 cents), a fresh-squeezed juice at another (30 cents), talk with some Egyptian guys I met, and slowly work my way home. Cairo has a good pace of life. Stay tuned for some more adventures, like your life, only a lot cheaper.

1/02/2007

Oh!

Posted by Andrew |

And I have had a few comments about the Christmas picture of me and Topher around the beautiful Christmas tree. After it was posted, I was told that I look "possessed", "weird", "skinny", and "strange." Since I don't know how to exorcise myself, or make myself look less weird or strange, I'll do my best to not look so skinny. Some good old Egyptian kebabs should help this. Don't worry grandparents and family, I'm not starving.

Oh, and the distance around the earth at the equator is roughly 24,900 miles. If you look at the number to the right, you can see that I've truly become a "world" traveler. *lame joke, sorry*

Home Again

Posted by Andrew |

I have to think of a new word for places where I return to that bring back floods of happy memories. I felt like I went home again when I visited Poland in September, and I have the same feeling today, as I return to Cairo, Egypt.
Singapore was a blast for New Years, I'll leave it at that. The next afternoon I caught a flight to Bangkok, Thailand to catch my other flight to Cairo, Egypt. Little did I know at the time that 8 bombs had exploded in Bangkok the previous evening... that explained the military guys with uzis in the departure terminal.

The travel gods were shining upon me, and they provided me with a bulkhead, exit row seat with nearly 12 feet of leg room for my ten hour overnight flight to Cairo. I slept nearly the entire flight, and woke up on an entirely different continent. Always a strange feeling. Stepping out into the crisp Cairo air (it's winter here, I could actually see my breath), I caught a bus, and then a taxi to a new apartment I'd never been to, to live with a friend of a friend I'd never met. Sounds exactly like home, right?

I spent hours wandering the familiar, yet different streets of Cairo which I knew so well three years ago. A little has changed, but much remains the same. It is still a dirty, backwards, and crowded city which for some reason I love. My rusty Arabic is returning to me, and at least the taxi drivers and food salesmen are understanding me.

It's good to be back, it should be a pleasant month and a half of cultural immersion and Arabic language classes. For a related prayer request, pray that I have success in my studies, particularly because if I do go to graduate school this coming fall (wow, it's 2007), I'll be studying Arabic and the Middle East.

Merry Christmas, Happy New Years, Happy Holidays, and all that good jazz. With love from Cairo.

Subscribe