Stay true to the dreams of thy youth

It was a cloudy morning in Siberia as I woke up on my top bunk 30 hours into my 41 hour train from Moscow to the central Siberian city of Omsk. As I wearily made my way to the train bathroom at the end of the department car, the conductor emerged from his room. "Nyet, nye _______." With some work, I deduced that he was locking the bathroom because the train was stopping, and as the toilets empty directly onto the track, they don't want passengers using the bathroom while stopped.

I clenched my bladder, made my way back to my berth and stared out the window trying not to think about waterfalls, oceans, or coffee. The train starts moving again, I wait in line for the bathroom, an old lady *hurry up*, a woman with two kids *great diaper change*, finally, it is my turn. I run in, decide to clear all the systems, and sit down. Right as I am finishing my business, I hear the screech of the brakes. "Oh no!! I can't flush, but I can't leave it there!!"

What to do? Let's just say if I broke the rules, some grandma crossing the tracks at the station would have an unpleasant surprise on her shoes. Conversely, I don't want the conductor to yell at me in Russian again... so I wait. I wash my hair, my face, brush my teeth.... still stopped. Put on deoderant... wait... At this point, I know there is a line of people outside waiting to use the toilet when the train resumes motion... so I can't just leave my handywork there without flushing...

After a few more minutes of contemplation, I decide to make a break for it. I open the door... and the wheels start moving. I quickly lock myself back in by pretending I forgot something, flush the toilet when I'm sure it will splatter when it hits the tracks, wash my hands and continue on my way.

As a warning to you all, do not poop when the train is stopped!

After those words of wisdom, Carson and I arrived in the very cold and rainy city of Omsk in the middle of Siberia near the Kazakhastan border. We arrived around 9 pm, bought our tickets with relative (relative meaning only 15 minutes of mixed English, Polish, and Russian with a grumpy Russian ticket woman) ease and hopped on a bus with a cheerful ticket lady.

We use the map in our Lonely Planet guide, make it halfway to the hotel we want to stay at, when the bus hits the car in front of us... A guy on the bus agrees to help us find our hotel, however our plans and his plans hardly mix. He walks us about 4 minutes to the nearest hotel... also one of the most expensive in town, insists we pay for his taxi home due to his generosity, $5, and carries on his way. Carson and I uneasily agree to stay at the hotel, which f0r us was rather pricy, about $50. BUT, the manual said if we stayed less than 12 hours we would stay for half price.

This morning, after a really good buffet breakfast fortunately included in the price, I ask about the rule, they discuss it for awhile and tell me that it does not apply to us because we were only there one night. I argue for awhile, because it says nothing of the sort, they insist it only applies after staying more than 2 nights... however, that defeats the purpose because you can't stay less than 12 hours, if you are not checking out... They disagree with my firm logic and send me away. I'm annoyed, but I get over it quickly. Not ALL strangers in Russia are as generous as the few we have met so far...

Despite our adventures, misadventures, good times, and bad, the trip so far has been spectacular. It is always incredible to put yourself in situations where you must rely on yourself, your instincts, your prayers, and a little luck. It will, however, be great to get to the warm weather of Beijing, after our quick jaunt through Lake Baikal and Mongolia.

Thanks for your prayers and love.

Пака